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By Alison Gardner
FATHER DAMIEN De Veuster is being canonized by Pope Benedict XVI in a Vatican
ceremony October 11.
With this honour, the priest becomes Hawaii’s first saint. The canonization is in recognition of his service to patients
with leprosy (Hansen’s Disease), who were banished to Molokai’s isolated Kalaupapa Peninsula when the affliction reached epidemic proportions
during the 19th century.
Originally from Belgium, Damien served in a missionary religious order in
Honolulu.
At age 33, he defied both the discouragement of the Catholic Church and secular
administrators – to become the first healthy outsider to live among the growing numbers of
medically-quarantined leprosy victims.
He served them for 16 years, until his own death from leprosy in 1889 at the age
of 49.
From 1866 until 1969, Hansen’s Disease sufferers were quarantined for life at Kalaupapa.
Most were native Hawaiians from every island in the chain. After the Second
World War, sulfone antibiotics were used for the first time with great success
to treat Kalaupapa leprosy patients.
In 1969, Hawaii’s isolation laws were abolished – leaving all residents of the settlement free to go.
However, recognizing the pain, deformity and mental suffering undergone by the
remaining residents, the Hawaiian government humanely offered them the option
to stay at Kalaupapa for the rest of their lives with total care and privacy
protection.
Many accepted that invitation. More than 20 remain in the settlement today,
living in their own historic plantation-style homes or at the small village
hospital.
In 1980, Kalaupapa National Historic Park, encompassing the entire peninsula,
was written into federal U.S. law – with highly restricted public access guaranteed until the last leprosy patient
passes away.
Today, some 80 park personnel and health care providers live in the community – but, with few exceptions, visitors there are restricted to day trips only.
Regardless of one’s faith, Kalaupapa provides an inspiring invitation to a pilgrimage conducted in
a stunning natural setting – with the underpinning of a tragic history and its surprisingly compassionate
ending.
With deep ocean-lapping sandy shores, it was the sheer 2,000 foot velvet-green
cliffs defining the land side of the peninsula that made it such a confining
location.
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There are still no roads into the area, though some inter-island airline flights
now bring visitors on day trips.
Today, most travellers journey to Kalaupapa the traditional pilgrim way – on foot, or on mules that make the return trip daily down a 1,700 foot, 2.9
mile cliff-hugging path with 26 hairpin switchbacks.
Once back down at sea level, an elderly school bus (without shock absorbers)
meets all visitors – and the driver/guide shares stories about the community while stopping at
historic gravesites, schools and churches, now impressively restored.
Visiting Kalaupapa requires both pre-registration and an authorized guide;
forward planning and the expectation of a little physical challenge are
essential. Surely these are ingredients for any pilgrimage journey worthy of
the name.
Damien’s elevation to sainthood is sure to inspire more people to visit Molokai and
contemplate Kalaupapa for themselves – though its geography will always make it an experience for the few.
Some key contacts: Moloka’i Visitors Association (molokai-hawaii.com); Molokai Mule Ride (muleride.com);
Molokai Fish & Dive (molokaifishanddive.com/kalaupapa.php) books mule rides, hikes, air
flights and hikes.
Alison Gardner is a Victoria-based travel journalist who researches pilgrimage
travel. Contact: travelwithachallenge.com.
October 2009
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